A prompt start as we had to have our cases ready for collection at 8am… which we managed. A good breakfast with the Swiss ladies, and then a farewell to our splendid hosts Barbie and Ken. Into the taxi and off to Keld where we finished yesterday. Our taxi arrived at the same time as the Swiss ladies, Sibylle and Cornelia. We set off walking with them for the first hour. They were good company, but were on a longer walk today than Tricia and me, so we let them press on, whilst we took a bit of time. Particularly as we were mainly climbing, and I was finding it hard work :-).

We stopped at Blakethwaite Smelt, something of a ruin, but a beautiful spot with water running down the hill. We then set off again…. climbing. We got a little confused with the direction of the C2C, but sorted it out. We were then up amongst old lead mines… quite barren and somewhat grim. We followed Hard level gill, passing old smelting mills long out of operation. We went past the Sydney trio, Natalie, Jim and Tom, they were having lunch… we got to talking about grouse, Tricia and me said we had not seen any. Of course this meant that we continued our walk we started to see loads!

We lunched at ‘Surrender Bridge’, then continued the walk down towards Reeth. Somehow we missed a turning on the C2C, and ended up in a village called Healaugh. We adjusted by joining the ‘low level’ C2C route and walked into Reeth alongside the River Swale. We found the Hotel Buck, both hot and ready for a cold drink. The walk was only 11-12 miles, but I found it hard going today… yesterday I felt great… not sure why I was so fatigued today.

We had a good meal in the bar, sat on the table next to the Sydney trio, and chatted with them. A walk around Reeth in the cooler evening after was nice.

A lovely breakfast, we sat with two Swiss ladies who are also doing the C2C, and had some laughs with them. No packing the luggage today as we were going to be returning back later… there was no accommodation available in Keld when we booked the holiday. We were on the road just after 9, and after some checks and re-checks with the map and the gps, we got on the C2C path. And then started the gradual 4.5 mile climb to the ‘nine standards’.

The ‘nine standards’ are located on the summit of Hartley Fell, and refers to a group of standing stones or cairns (nine of them), near the summit. The original purpose of the ‘nine standards’ is not entirely clear, but one possibility is that they marked the boundary between Westmorland and Swaledale… but who knows. The walk up was a good workout, we rested at the top and enjoyed the cooling breeze.

The walk thereafter was pretty much across moor land. There were differing seasonal routes, designed to reduce erosion, so we did the right thing and followed the appropriate trail, even though we would have preferred another. We arrived at the farm of ‘Yorkshire Shepperdess’ Amanda Owen, seen on TV in ‘Dales’. They do cold drinks / teas, and we got a couple of cold drinks, and sat with some fellow C2C’ers.

Back on trail we arrived in Keld at just before 3pm. A few years back, when we did the Pennine Way we passed through Keld going south… in very different weather conditions. We were supposed to have been doing 13 miles today, but we reckoned it was barely 12. I sat in the bar at Keld Lodge, where we had stayed when doing the Pennine Way, and watched the first half of the England v Sweden game, whilst Tricia went off for a look around. At just before 4 the taxi turned up to bring us back to Kirkby Stephen, we got back in time for me to watch most of the second half, and Englands victory.

In the evening we went and enjoyed a meal at the Pennine Bistro… a bit noisy with half drunk England fans, but the food was good.

A good nights sleep at the George in Orton, and a decent breakfast (poached eggs slightly overdone) and we were on our way. Out of the village and our first port of call was a stone circle, about a mile out of the village. It wasn’t exactly Stonehenge, but Tricia was pleased to have found it. We made our way across fields, and when we reached Sunbiggin Farm, we took a planned detour, up onto the limestone pavements (Ashby Scar).

We came back down, and rejoined the C2C. It was then across Ravenstonedale Moor, until we did another detour off the trail, going up Bents Hill instead of around it. As we came down we went slightly wrong around a disused railway line, but corrected ourselves, and then had lunch overlooking Smardal bridge.

Once over the bridge, we went up Smardale Fell. From there it was a relatively uneventful walk down until we arrived in Kirkby Stephen. Our B&B is lovely… we were greeted with tea and squash, and gluten free biscuits! In the evening we had a curry in a (recommended) local Indian.

The bells… the bells. The church bells that is. The church across the road had an automated chime on the clock, every 15 minutes. So it gradually woke us in the morning. Up at 7:30, breakfast at 8, and we left at just before 9. The Mitre and Crown in Brampton is to be recommended, lovely bed, spacious room. We left across a public footpath through the church and headed out to pick up the C2C trail, and then went on towards Shap.

The landscape was significantly different. The peaks of the Lake District clearly behind us. Rolling fields and moor in front, much flatter. We arrived at Shap Abbey… well, what is left of it after Henry VII had his way. Then onto Shap itself, a visit to the shop to pick up some drinks and fruit, and on our way again. We exited left at the bottom of the Main Street, across the railway, and then after a brief stop to take on water, up and over the M6. We were able to walk at a goodish pace, and as we went across the moor, we went off track for a while as we just followed a straight path. We got ourselves back on C2C trail, and stopped for lunch sat on some limestone.

Then it was back onto the moor, passing various boulders, as you do, and one of Robin Hood’s numerous graves. Clever man, he is buried in many places. The sun was now behind some dark cloud, and as we approached the final walk into Orton for the day, we even experienced rain! Not much, just a few drops, but yes, rain still exists.

We followed a stream down into Orton… what a lovely place! Beautiful. We stopped into a cafe, tea for Tricia, coffee for me. The lady seemed to be confused between a cappuccino and a latte.. I asked for the former, and got the latter. But I didn’t really care. There was even a piece of gluten free cake for me. We then checked into the George Hotel, our stop for the night, and enjoyed a good meal in the bar. 12 miles walked and pretty easy going. Tomorrow we go onto Kirkby Stephen.

Tricia was on a mission today… no faffing about, get up, get on with it. The alarm went off at 7 and I was supposed to be ‘getting on with it’. Doesn’t she know I am on holiday? Anyway, somehow I managed to get on with getting ready. Nice breakfast, poached eggs not watery today, but a little overdone. We were away at just after 8:30… the odd part owner, Lurch, only deciding now to be sociable and ask where we were off to. We exchanged a few comments and then he went shuffling off back to Dr Frankensteins laboratory or wherever it is he spends his day.

We set off back towards Patterdale. A brief stop when I remembered (or rather Tricia did for me) to put some sun cream on. Then we found our route and started going up. Again… you can’t go anywhere in the Lake District without going up. Pop out to get a paper and you probably have to climb 200m. I don’t think the locals go up the mountains here, they just look in awe at the idiots who turn up to do it for ‘fun’. As we started our ascent I could be heard by all in the north of England muttering under my breath, ‘another bloody hill’. This was one was assisted by some nice chaps from the National Trust who seem to spend their day making rather nice and helpful stone steps.

Up Stony Rigg, and some oddly named Crags, or Brows or Pikes etc, and we were up at around 530m. We stopped at Angle Tarn, Tricia to look at the scenery, and admire the geese. Me too get my Hankie soaking cold wet and put around my neck… nice, and to have a word with my legs… come on chaps, got to keep going. We had a word with a nice couple, who were English…not too many of those so far. We set off again, and went up another Crag, but went slightly off trail in doing so. Coming down we realised this and adjusted our route, not realising the couple had followed us thinking we knew where we were going, and didn’t see us adjust our route. Whoops.

The next thing to do of course was go up. This time up the Knott. This was a bit of a slog, but ok. Then it was down a little from the Knott, 739m, and up to Kidsty Pike, 780m, which is apparently the highest part of the C2C trail. A rest and a drink and the English couple caught up and explained they had gone wrong on account of us :-).

We started down… from a distance this looked gentle, but wasn’t completely, quite steep in place. At the bottom we stopped for lunch by a lovely little stream and waterfall. The job then was to walk around 3 miles along a reservoir. Even this wasnt entirely flat. We stopped at one point to assist a lady with blistered feet, giving her some tape to help. We arrived in Burbanks, and caught up our Melbourne friends. They were staying at the same place in Brampton as we were and so we walked the last few miles with them. We are in the Crown and Mitre. A lovely room awaited us. We sat with Stephen and Cathy (from Melbourne) for our evening meal before retiring to write blogs and go to bed.

The record for July 3rd, is a dayy late, due to two reasons, the first being that we were in the highest room in the guest house, and the wifi didn’t reach, and also because having watched England finally beat Colombia on penalties I was too tired to walk down to the guest sitting room to blog.

Tuesday July 3rd started with an ok breakfast, the poached eggs were a little watery, but I will get over it. We walked back down into Grasmere, a lovely Lake District village, and stocked up on some items for lunch, before setting off to get back on the C2C trail. We started a long and gradual climb along Tongue Gill, which was hard work in the morning sun. Today I had my new strategy of putting my hankie into each stream we passed, soaking it with cold water and tying around my neck… very helpful in keeping me cool. As we approached the top of the climb there were some wonderful waterfalls, and the march up became a little steeper. The top was ‘Grisedale Hause’ at about 582m, and just over the top was Grisedale Tarn. A lovely spot where we rested, and talked with two other couples doing the same, one from Melbourne and one from Florida.

After resting up we continued, what was now a very long descent into Patterdale. This was gradual, and not so jarring on the knees as the previous days descent into Grasmere. Whereas yesterday we were on top of the peaks, today we were walking along the valley, following Grisedale Beck all the way down. We came off trail at Patterdale, and walked the road, which was almost melting in the heat. Our stay for the night was at Glenridding, neighbouring Patterdale. Glenridding is on the southern end of Ullswater… famous for Donald Campbell  setting the world record for a speeding boat back in the 50’s. We sat looking at the lake whilst consuming ice cream… perfect for a summer afternoon.

Then we went and found our guest house, where we were greeted by an odd chap, who seemed reluctant to want to admit guests, even those who were booked to be there, like us. Tricia named him Lurch. Harsh but pretty accurate. Anyhow, we got in. After cooling showers to try and shake off the heat of the day, it was off to the Travellers Rest for an evening meal. After which I went back to the guest house to watch the football. Tricia went to the lake. The evening ended with Jordan Pickford making a fine save, followed by Eric Dier scoring the winning penalty. Nice.

The schedule for today didn’t seem too daunting. Only 9 miles if we wanted. But we didn’t, we wanted some of the peaks on offer, so took an alternative route which added about an extra 4 miles. We had a lovely breakfast, but took some time to get ourselves together and out. We immediately set off incorrectly and had to double back, but this was only minor. From Seatoller we walked through to Longthwaite,  taking in a YHA cafe along the route for some cold drinks…. it was warm already. Into Rosthwaite, and then we started walking alongside Stonethwaite beck.

We followed the beck up Greenup Gill, a long gradual climb over a few hours. There were some beautiful waterfalls along the way. We climbed Lining Crag, and had a small break before going up to Greenup Edge.

It was then that we could have diverted to take the lower valley walk to Grasmere, but took the alternative route to walk the higher line. Gibson Knott, Helm Crag, High Raven Crag. The last Crag felt daunting… it was hot and I have to say I found the heat somewhat sapping. But we did it and then started the sharp descent, which took its toll on the knees. Once down we had about a mile walk into Grasmere, and the luxury of a couple of cold cans of drink.

The B&B is right on the edge of Grasmere and on the main Keswick road. We are hoping the traffic won’t keep us awake. We ate in the Travellers Rest… the cider was good, and the food was excellent. In theory tomorrows walk should be the shortest of our trip.

Good sleep, and a good breakfast. What was needed for the walking challenge ahead today. We were away unusually early for me, I am the one who is normally faffing about, but 8:30 am we were on the road. Initially out to Ennerdale Water, we walked alongside the beautifully still lake, in the peace and quiet of the Sunday morning. Barely a soul about… a couple walking a couple of mad dogs was about it. Terrain was pretty good most of the way, until we had worked our way half way down the lake when it became a little more rocky underneath. Having completed the lake walk, we worked our way left to a track which would allow us to take an ‘alternative route’. Wainwright had offered different routes depending on the weather… if its good get up Red Pike and work along from there.

So, after a drinks break… and it was getting very hot by this time, that is what we did. It was a fairly steep climb, and to be honest I struggled a bit with it. Needing to stop often for a breather and water. It was rather hot, perhaps that was it. Tricia was sitting comfortably when I arrived at the top 10 minutes after her. Breathtaking views. After a refreshment we moved onto High Peak, working our way down slightly only to rise again up to the peak. I felt slightly more with it now.

After lunch, and there was no breeze, and no shade so we had to eat in the full sun, we moved on towards High Stile and then High Crag. We were starting to weary around now, but foolishly thought we were not too far done in the day. The descent to from High Crag was steep and the rock loose underfoot in places, so we took sometime coming down. Over a relatively small hill, we were then faced with our last big climb of the day. Hay Stacks. Now in a lot of ways, it is important from one perspective… we are doing Wainwrights walk, and this was one of his favourites. In fact he has his ashes spread there. So we felt we had to do it. Daunting and hard work, and scrambling and climbing we made the top, both of us pretty tired now, and we had just used the last of the water.

The descent from Hay Stacks was not as sharp, but it was arduous, and involved some frustrating climbs up before coming down. We were headed for an old slate mine at Honister, and it felt like it took an age to get there, always in the distance but never any nearer. We took some water from streams to pour over our heads to keep cool. Past the slate mine we could head for Honister, another long walk with us both thirsty and cursing not having brought more water with us. We hit civilisation around 6pm, just as a shop was about to close, but we managed to get some bottled water and drinks. Tricia asked the man to hold off closing as another couple behind us, with the same water predicament, were also desperate for refreshment.

After loading up with liquid, we had to do the last couple of miles to our B&B, which seemed to drag on forever. If we had walked the normal route we would have done 15 miles… the alternate route added an extra 5. The terrain was quite rocky in places and we were both a little footsore. We arrived at the B&B at last.  Two cool and refreshing showers later, we were taken to a local pub where we could eat. Never have I looked forward to a cold cider as much, and never have I been so disappointed when we found they had sold out. So a pint of coke it was for me, and bitter shandy for Tricia. We had to wait a while for food as well as the pub was short staffed… but we ate eventually, and got back to the B&B.

Pictures to from today… in no particular order

Not the best of nights sleep. It was hot, noisy and the bed wasnt comfortable. We surfaced around 7:20 and got ourselves to breakfast just after 8. A good breakfast. Set up for the day we ventured into the bright sunny and already hot morning. The first job was to walk the mile back out to meet up with the C2C trail. This was relatively straightforward, until I tried to traverse a stile, and forgetting I had a back pack overbalanced, swung around and imadevertantly sat on some barbed wire. This of course made me find the immediate need to recover my position and get over the stile. No damage done, my shorts were not damaged, the only thing punctured was my pride. We met up with the trail and ventured on the C2C trail… which was relatively well marked. We crossed Scalegill Beck, and on towards Moor Row. The benefit of doing this was that we got to see the Wainright monument. The downside was that we didnt cover the alternative route along an old railway line, which in hindsight may have been a more attractive route.

Thru Moor Row, we headed out towards Cleator, initially on path/road, until picking up the public footpath, and meeting up with where the alternative route would have taken us. This was all relatively easy walking, no climbs. In Cleator we stopped to buy some cold drinks… and probably spent too long talking to the shop owner, about her pies, and workers from Sellafield. The cold drinks were refreshing, but we were about to get hot again as we started the gradual climb up ‘Dent’, which at 352m isn’t that high, but was still a good workout, and the views at the top were very rewarding… stunning views with the clear sky.

We came down Dent, and casually missed a stile we should have gone over, and walked on about 400m before Tricia realised we had made a mistake.. so we turned back, and made good. We descended sharply to a valley… the surface was dry and a little slippy, goodness only knows what it would be like if it was wet. We walked up the valley to the edge of Raven Crag where we found a beautiful spot for a break and a light lunch. Whilst there a young lady came past, videoing the route to make a YouTube video – this was work for her. We talked for a while before she moved on.

We reluctantly gave up our spot and moved onto Ennerdale. It was around 3:45, and slightly early to book in at the B&B, but they were ready, and we checked in. Lovely place, lovely room…. and fabulous shower. At about 6 we went back out to the village and met up with Les & Les, and enjoyed a drink and an evening meal with them.

Tomorrow we have 15 Miles scheduled and some bigger climbs. Early night then!

The day gradually came to life. With the windows open due to the heat, first there was the dawn chorus, who made a right racket, then the noise of early morning workers going off, and then the sound of the occasional train at the back of Lesley’s. When Megan the dog arrived in the room I figured it was probably best to get up. After packing up and breakfasting, Les took us down to Millom station, and we took the train to St Bees. On arrival I called the B&B we were scheduled to stay at to see if we could leave our cases there early… stroke of luck, the lady said the room was ready and we could drop our luggage off.

The first part of the Wainwright walk takes you up the coast towards Whitehaven, before coming inland and going slightly south towards Sandwith, before venturing off East. All of this was scheduled to be part of tomorrows walk, but as time was on our side, we decided to do the first half today, about 6-7 miles, coming off the path about a mile north of St Bees to return to the B&B. We will just walk back up tomorrow and pick up the path.

First port of call was the beach at St Bees. Wainwright says you should go for a paddle… so we did. The water was lovely and warm as well. Feet dried off and booted up, we then headed up onto the coastal walk. Past a few lookout areas, we could clearly see the Isle of Man. I tried to tell Tricia it was Thunderbird Island, but that just earned me one of Tricia’s ‘looks’. The sky was clear, it was very still, the Irish Sea very calm. Beautiful. There were a couple of RSPB lookouts, where you could see sea birds, mainly guillemots, some razorbills, crammed in the cliff and rock. We stopped for lunch in a little cove… the sea beckoned, and so I was down to my undies and in the sea. Bloody hell it was freezing. I don’t know what the difference was in a few miles of coast, but I wasn’t long in the sea. Lunch over, and further on we passed a Lighthouse, now privately owned, and then the gradual trend back East and inland. We went through Sandwith, and down to a rail line, where we left the path and headed back to St Bees. Just before we went across a crossroads, and there was an old guy sat in his garden in the shade enjoying the warmth. I glugged the last of my water and he promptly asked if I wanted it refilled. Top Man.

We poked our nose in the Priory, a beautiful old church, and then into the local shop for some cold drinks. After showers we ate in a local called the Manor. Food was ok. But the place was full of people, who had finished for the weekend and were filling themselves with alcohol. They were a little loud. Never mind. So we are

all ready for tomorrow, 4 bottles of water in the fridge chilling. Breakfast at 8, and not so far to walk tomorrow. Which means no time pressures, we can stop and enjoy the route when we want to.